HOW DO I PICK THE RIGHT GEARS?

Gearing, like so many aspects of road cycling, has advanced over the years and, while the pro riders often lead the way in establishing techniques and habits we're all keen to follow, remember that the gear selection of an elite rider may be far from the right choice for you.
Gears are used to keep you in your optimal cadence range, making you efficient across different terrain. Gears may seem simple enough, but even elite riders make mistakes when it comes to mastering them.

50/34
Standard set-up
This is a 50/34-tooth chainset paired with an 11-28t cassette

Read the manual
Whatever groupset you ride, read the manual. Each drivetrain works slightly differently and this is especially true for electronic shifting. For example, SRAM eTap has an app to customise your shifts. Traditional shifters suffer from cable stretch, meaning that over time you will need to adjust the indexing. Learning how your gears work and keeping up with servicing will ensure they run smoothly and reliably.

Right ratios
Think about your usage. What terrain are you likely to encounter? Are you racing a high-speed crit or tackling steep climbs? This will dictate your gear ratio. There are online calculators where you can input your gearing and estimated speed and it'll tell you your cadence. Use this to work out if your smallest and largest gear are suitable, keeping you in your optimal cadence range.

Double time
Most cyclists will have a'double: two chainrings on the chainset. Shifting between the big and little rings can cause the chain to come off. Even pros fall foul of this, as Andy Schleck famously showed when he lost the yellow jersey in the 2010 Tour de France.To minimise the risk, install a chain catcher; it'll stop the chainring 'dropping* when you shift to the small ring. When shifting, make sure you're seated and ease off the power for a moment. Also, don't shift both the front and rear derailleurs at the same time.

Tow the line
Poor chain line - when the chain is on the big ring and largest sprocket on the rear - is another common error. It not only costs watts but raises the risk of the chain coming off. Try to get a feel for the gear you're in and scan ahead so you make shifts to and from the big ring in good time before you need to apply pressure to the pedals.

Liam Holohan, cycling coach